DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST
It’s been quite some time since my last post and I have been receiving some questions from returning readers. I am still good – and happy – and a bit tired from taking care of my newborn baby. He is just adorable but still some times he makes me crazy with his loud cry!
The new design I am sharing today is a quick and easy project – yet it is still stylish! It is developed from the basic pencil skirt – with added gathered detail at the sides of the hips. It will be a nice addition to the plain basic skirt that every one may already have in their closet.
Now let’s see the 3D simulation for the Janice pencil skirt, maybe you can find some idea for your next project:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired length – you can even make a maxi skirt from this pattern.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the instruction here.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
HOW TO SEW THE JANICE PENCIL SKIRT
You will need
- Fabric of your choice
- Fusible interfacing (medium weight)
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
What fabric can be used for this project? This design is made for woven fabric or any fabric without much stretch. As colder weather is ahead, I can imagine making it with tweed, faux leather or wool.
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front Skirt: 1 piece cut on the fold
- Back Skirt: 2 pieces
- Front Waistband: 2 pieces self fabric + 1 pieces fusible interfacing (both cut on the fold)
- Back Waistband: 4 pieces self fabric + 2 pieces fusible interfacing
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge the fabric to prevent fraying. If you use non fraying fabric, you can skip this step.
2. Pin and sew the dart on Back Skirt pieces.
3. Now come to the Front Skirt. You will see that the two legs of the front dart are now not equal to each other. You will need to gather the longer dart leg to match it with the other leg. Sew two parallel lines using longest stitch length at the longer leg of the front dart. Pull the thread to gather the dart leg so that it matches the shorter one. Pin and sew the front dart. Do this with both front darts.
4. Use the same method to gather the side of the Front Skirt so that it matches the Back Skirt (the part from the notch at the hip toward the waist). Place the Front Skirt and Back Skirt right side facing. Pin and sew the Front Skirt and the Back Skirt. Repeat with the other side of the skirt.
5. Apply fusible interfacing to one Front Waistband and two Back Waistband pieces. Place the Front Waistband and Back Waistband right side facing, pin and sew the side seams. This is the inside waistband.
6. Place the remaining Front Waistband and Back Waistband right side facing. Sew the side seams of the waistband. This will be the outside waistband.
7. Place the outside waistband and the main garment right side facing, matching all the seams. Pin and sew to join the outside waistband to the main garment.
8. Attach zippers to the back of the skirt.
9. Pin and sew the inside waistband to the outside waistband. Turn it over and stay stitch the seam allowance to the inside waistband. Finish the waistband and the zipper.
10. Hem the skirt. Give it a good ironing and you’re done!
What do you think about it? A super fast and easy fail-proof project, right? And here is the download link:
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns