DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST
Although it is still far from warmer spring weather, I feel I am so inspired with the light and breezy clothing for sunny days. And today, the piece of garment is a simple asymmetrical hem blouse that is perfect to be made with soft flowy fabric – the Thalia blouse!
I have some example of fabric pattern choice for you to imagine how it will turn out with different colors and prints.
This is the front:
And this is the back:
The Thalia asymmetrical hem blouse is created in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, which means even if you are skinny or chubby, you can find one that fits you best!
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the instruction here.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
HOW TO SEW THE THALIA ASYMMETRICAL HEM BLOUSE
The Thalia asymmetrical hem blouse can be one of the simplest project that you start! Even a novice can make a perfect garment with this pattern.
You will need
- Fabric of your choice
- Some interfacing
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
What fabric can be used for this project? Although it depends on your choice, I recommend using woven fabric. Opt for soft flowy fabric for a romantic look, solid color or fun prints, each will create a unique style.
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? You may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Main piece – cut 2
- Interfacing – cut 2 main fabric + 2 fusible interfacing
- Or you can just skip the facing and use bias binding for the neckline and armholes.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as pleats etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge the fabric to prevent fraying. If you use non fraying fabric (like fleece or knitted fabric), you can skip this step.
2. Apply fusible interfacing to the facing pieces.
3. Place main pieces right side facing, pin and sew to join the shoulder seams. Repeat this step with the facing pieces.
4. Place the facing and main blouse right side facing. Pin along the neckline so that all the notches and seam lines match. Sew along the neckline. Flip the facing piece and top stitch the seam allowance toward the facing piece. Clip the seam allowance for smoother curve.
5. (Now the trickier part) Lay the garment flat, facing side up, and tightly roll right side of the garment towards the opposite edge.
Then take your left/unrolled facing armhole edge and wrap it around the roll so that it meets the left armhole edge of the garment. Basically, you are enclosing the right side of the garment between the left facing and left garment fabrics like a burrito.
Align the raw edges of your left armhole and pin the two right sides together.
Sew the armhole seam right sides together at your usual seam allowance taking care not to catch the rolled up fabric. Trim and clip your seam allowance.
Gently pull the rolled garment right side out.
You can just skip this step (and step 2-3-4) by using bias binding for the neckline and the armhole!!!
6. Pin and sew the sides seams in one pass from the bottom hem of your garment to the edge of your facing at your usual seam allowance.
7. Hem the garment.
And here is the download link: