DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST
The weather is getting cooler and I guess we will not be too far from having to add another layer to our outfit. I just got a request from my sister to make her a haori jacket – and I am glad I made it! To someone who is not familiar with the word haori, I can say that it is a Japanese traditional jacket with a loose fit. Haori range in length from a standard jacket length, to mid-thigh, and even long haori that can reach your calves. Unlike kimono, they don’t wrap closed, and are normally worn open, although some will have a tie that connects at the lapels.
My haori jacket features two patched pockets, 7/8 sleeves and above the knee length. It is simple and versatile and can be mixed with many kinds of clothing, from shorts, jeans, skirts to dress. Just add it to your summer outfit, and you will have a perfect transitional outfit!
For this haori design, I decided to make only one size. As haori is a loose fitting garment and the front does not need to be closed, one size can fit most. However, if you find it too large or small, just leave a comment on my website or Facebook page, I will send a graded version.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
HOW TO SEW THE HYOKO HAORI JACKET
You will need
- Fabric of your choice
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
What fabric can be used for this project? You can make a top from any kind of fabric, from fleece to knitted wool. Go for an Asian print, you will make it look like a piece of garment from the East.
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? Not too much. In general, a yard of fabric is enough. But to be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: 2 pieces
- Back: 1 piece cut on the fold
- Front Facing: 2 pieces self fabric + 2 pieces fusible interfacing
- Back Facing: 1 piece self fabric + 1 piece fusible interfacing
- Sleeve: 2 pieces
- Pocket: 2 pieces
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as pleats etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge the fabric to prevent fraying. If you use non fraying fabric (like knitted fabric), you can skip this step.
2. Fold and sew the top edge of the Pocket pieces. Iron the Pocket pieces so that all seam allowances are folded toward the wrong side of fabric.
3. Pin the Pocket to the Front Piece so it matches the marking on the Front piece. Sew to attach the Pocket to the Front piece. Do it with both sides.
4. Place one of the Front pieces and Back piece right side facing. Pin and sew the shoulder and side seam. Repeat with the other Front piece.
5. Apply fusible interfacing to the facing pieces. Place one of the Front Facing pieces and Back Facing piece right side facing, pin and sew the shoulder seam. Repeat with the other Front Facing piece.
6. Place the joined Facing piece and the main garment right side facing. Pin and sew to attach the facing to the garment. Turn the facing into the wrong side of the garment, iron and staystitch the seam allowance to the Facing piece so it will not show on the outside.
7. Sew the side seam of the sleeve. Turn it inside out.
8. Pin the sleeve to the armhole, make sure the notch matches the shoulder seam, and the side seam of the sleeve matches the side seam of the garment. Sew to join the sleeve to the garment.
9. Hem the sleeves and the garment. And done! Iron it and you get your haori jacket!
And here is the download link:
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns