Say hello to the Rukiya Dress – a free sewing pattern that’s made for effortless vacation style. With its elasticated square neckline, flutter sleeves, and flattering empire waistline, this dress is both charming and comfortable. The gathered midi-length skirt offers a graceful silhouette while providing a bit of tummy coverage – perfect for relaxed holiday vibes. Designed with travel in mind, the shirred back and elastic waist ensures the best fit and keeps the comfortability and flexibility wherever your adventures take you. Pair it with a statement necklace, bold earrings, a wide-brim hat, and your favorite sandals, and you’re vacation-ready in no time!
Let’s have a look at the design in different colors and prints:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in Projector files, A4/Letter paper and A0 paper formats so you can use a projector, print at home or at any print shop!
For home printers, you can print this using either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
TOOLS AND MATERIAL
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is intended for WOVEN fabric.
- Some 1cm (3/8”) wide elastic for neckline and waist seam
- Elastic thread for shirring the back bodice
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
PATTERN PIECES & FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
- Front Bodice: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Side Back Bodice: cut 2 mirrored pieces
- Center Back Bodice (to be shirred): cut 1 piece on the fold
- Skirt: cut 2 pieces on the fold
- Sleeve: cut 2 mirrored pieces
- Inseam pocket: cut 4 pieces into 2 mirrored pairs
SEAM ALLOWANCE
– All seams: 1.25cm (1/2”)
– Seam allowance has been included in the pattern pieces. Cut pattern as is and use the above-mentioned seam allowance when constructing the garment.
CUTTING INSTRUCTION
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to secure them in place. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut out the fabric pieces along the outer lines of the pattern. Take your time to ensure precise and clean cuts, as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of your garment.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats, draw marks etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
1. Shir the Center Back Bodice
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/06/15/how-to-create-shirring/
2. Sew the Back Bodice
– Place Center Back Bodice and one Side Back Bodice right sides together, match the edges and stitch. Neaten seam allowances together and press towards the side. Repeat with the other Side Back Bodice piece.
3. Sew the inseam pockets
Tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2018/02/22/adding-side-seam-pockets-to-the-dress/
4. Gather the Skirt pieces
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/08/31/how-to-gather-fabric/
– Gather one Skirt piece to match the bottom edge of the Front Bodice.
– Gather the other Skirt piece to match the bottom edge of the Back Bodice, with the shirred panel stretched flat.
5. Attach the Skirt to the bodice
– Place the Front Skirt and Front Bodice right sides together and stitch the waist seam. Trim off the seam allowance of the skirt down to 0.5cm (1/4”). Neaten seam allowance of the bodice, then press it down toward the skirt, it will cover the seam allowance of the skirt. Topstitch the bodice seam allowance to the skirt at 1.2cm (a bit less than ½”) from the waist seam to create a casing for elastic. Cut a piece of elastic with the length equals half of the waist circumference and feed it into the casing. Tack the ends of elastic to the side seam of the garment.
– Repeat to attach Back Skirt and Back Bodice and insert elastic to the waist seam.
6. Sew the main garment
– Place Front Dress and Back Dress right sides together, matching the side seams and pocket edges and stitch.
– Neaten seam allowances together and press toward the back of the dress.
7. Sew the sleeves
– Fold the Sleeve piece in half vertically, match the sleeve seam and stitch. Neaten seam allowances together and press towards the front of sleeve.
– Pin the Sleeve and main garment right sides together, matching the sleeve seam with the side seam, and notches on the sleeve with notches on the main garment. Stitch the armhole seam. Neaten seam allowances together and press towards the sleeve.
8. Finish neckline
– Neaten the raw edge of the neckline, all the way around the front neckline, shoulders and back neckline.
– Fold the 1.25cm (1/2”) seam allowance of the neckline to the wrong side of fabric and topstitch to create a channel for elastic. Leave a 5cm (2”) opening at the back to insert elastic.
– Cut a piece of elastic with the length equal your bust measurement and feed it into the elastic casing, making sure it does not twist along the way. Stitch two ends together.
– Stretch the neckline a few times to distribute the fabric evenly.
– Try on the garment and adjust the length of elastic if needed. Stitch to close the opening of the elastic casing when you are satisfied with the neckline.
9. Finish hem
– Fold the hem of the sleeve twice, each time 1cm (3/8”), press and topstitch.
– Fold 2.5cm (1”) of the dress hem toward the wrong side, press and topstitch.
Below are the download links:
To download just click on the link above and choose “Save link as”. The PDF file will be downloaded to your device. An advertisement may pop up, just close it and continue with your download. In case some ads attempt to make you enter your personal info, just ignore and close it. I do NOT require any kind of information to download my pattern files.
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns or tag me on Instagram #tianasclosetsewingpatterns, I will be thrilled to see the garment in real life!
