Puffed sleeve has always been the favorite detail for many designs recently, and I think that I should share a pattern with this lovely detail to add to my collection.
This pattern was inspired by a design by the brand DOLAN, sold by Anthropologie, and the original garment costs $88 – which is a lot in consideration to how easy it can be made – with a combo of knit fabric and woven fabric, and some decorative pearls. I believe it can be DIY-ed for less than $20 (of course not counting the labor cost, but hey, sewing is a hobby, you pay for your hobbies right?)
Let’s have a look at different angles:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired size. Also check your size before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
You will need
- Fabric of your choice, the bodice MUST be made with knit/stretch fabric, and the sleeves can be made with woven or knit, your choice
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
Cutting instruction:
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: cut 1 on the fold (knit fabric)
- Back: cut 1 on the fold (knit fabric)
- Neckline binding: cut 1 (knit fabric)
- Sleeve: cut 2 (knit or woven fabric)
- Sleeve Cuff: cut 2 (must use the knit fabric)
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
Sewing instruction:
1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edge to prevent fabric from unraveling. Apply fusible interfacing to the neckline facing pieces.
2. Place Front and Back pieces right side facing. Pin and sew shoulder and side seams. Measure the length from the notch at the front armhole through the shoulder point to the notch at the back armhole – this is the cap length.
3. Sew two straight lines using longest stitches ¼ and 1/3 inch at the cap of the sleeve (starting from the notch on the back armhole toward the notch on the front armhole). Pull lower threads to gather the fabric until the curved edge of the sleeve cap equals the cap length. Distribute the gatherings evenly. Repeat with the other side.
4. Sew the side seam of the Sleeve.
5. Sew the side seam of the Sleeve Cuff. Fold it in half so that the seam allowance is hidden inside the fold.
6. Pin the Sleeve Cuff to the Sleeve and sew to join. When sewing remember to pull the Sleeve Cuff so that it stretches to match the Sleeve.
7. Turn the Sleeve inside out, place it right side facing the main garment at the armhole, matching the notches. Pin and sew to join the sleeve to the main garment.
8. Use Neckline binding to finish the neckline.
9. Hem the garment.
Although the sleeve gathering detail may be a bit of a challenge to newer sewers, I believe the result will make you happy.
And here is the download link:
SIDNEY PUFFED SLEEVE TOP (SIZE XXS-5XL)
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns
Tiana
