Kylie open back midi dress is a fancy design made for special occasions, with the structured front, open back detail, and a tea length flared skirt, it is charming, sexy and not too showy. I love how the open back shows off some of the skin but still modest enough for a timid lady to still feel confident.
First let’s have a look at the design sketch, I made a few revisions and this is the final:
Let’s look at the design in various colors/print. The virtual model is 168cm tall and is wearing size M.
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in both A4/Letter paper and A0 paper format so you can print at home or at any print shop! I also included a projector file for those who are more tech savvy and have a projector at home!
For home printers, you can print this using your home printer and either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
You will need:
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is intended for WOVEN fabric.
- Lining fabric.
- Invisible zipper.
- Button for back neck closure.
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
CUTTING INSTRUCTION
All my patterns already include 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Just cut the pattern pieces as is and use a 1cm seam allowance when you sew.
The fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Upper Front Bodice: cut 1 main fabric + 1 lining (on the fold)
- Center Front Waist Panel: cut 1 main fabric + 1 lining (on the fold)
- Side Front Waist Panel: cut 2 mirrored pieces main fabric + 2 mirrored pieces lining
- Front Hip Panel: cut 2 mirrored pieces main fabric + 2 mirrored pieces lining
- Upper Back Bodice: cut 2 mirrored pieces main fabric + 2 mirrored pieces lining
- Lower Back Bodice: cut 2 mirrored pieces main fabric + 2 mirrored pieces lining
- Front Skirt: cut 1 main fabric + 1 lining (on the fold)
- Back Skirt: cut 1 main fabric + 1 lining (on the fold)
- Sleeve: cut 2 mirrored pieces
- Sleeve Facing: cut 2 mirrored pieces
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to secure them in place. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut out the fabric pieces along the outer lines of the pattern. Take your time to ensure precise and clean cuts, as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of your garment.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats, draw marks etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
1. Sew the darts on Lower Back Bodice
– Fold the dart on the Lower Back Bodice as marked on the pattern and sew.
– Trim off excess fabric of the dart and press seam allowance to the sides.
2. Sew the Front Bodice
– Place Center Front Waist Panel and Side Front Waist Panel right sides together, pin and sew. Repeat with the other side to get the Waist Panel.
– Place the Hip Panel and the Waist Panel right sides together, matching the diagonal seam and sew to attach to get the Lower Front Bodice.
– Gather the bottom edge of the Upper Front Bodice, the part in between two notches on each side, to match the part in between two notches on each side of the top edge of the Lower Bodice.
– Pin the Upper Front Bodice and Upper Back Bodice right sides together, matching the corner and the notches. Sew to attach.
3. Sew the Back Bodice
– Place the Upper Back Bodice and Lower Back Bodice right sides together, matching the bottom edge of the Upper Back Bodice with the part from the side seam to the notch on the upper edge of Lower Back Bodice. Sew two pieces together to get the Back Bodice.
– Repeat with the other side.
4. Sew the Dress Bodice
– Place Front Bodice and one Back Bodice right sides together, matching the shoulder and side seam and sew to attach. Repeat with the other side to get the Dress Bodice.
5. Sew the Bodice Lining
– Repeat previous steps to get the Bodice Lining.
6. Sew the bodice lining to bodice
– Place Dress Bodice and its lining right sides together, matching the neckline and the open back edges.
– Sew the neckline of the garment. Starting from the horizontal back seam along the open back edge, to the back and front neckline, and to the other side of the back seam.
– Clip corners, trim off seam allowance at the curves. Understitch seam allowance to the lining, trying to get as close as possible to the corner as you sew.
7. Attach invisible zipper to center back
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/12/06/how-to-sew-invisible-zipper-on-a-fully-lined-dress/
8. Sew Skirt
– Place Front Skirt and Back Skirt right sides together, matching the side seams and sew to get the Skirt.
– Repeat with the Skirt Lining.
9. Attach Skirt to Dress Bodice
– Place Skirt and Dress Bodice right sides together, matching the upper edge of skirt with bottom edge of bodice.
– Place the Skirt Lining right side facing right side of Skirt, sandwiching the Dress Bodice in between two layers. Pin to secure.
– Stich 3 layers together to get the Main Garment.
10. Sew the Sleeve
– Fold the sides of Sleeve right sides together, sew the underarm seam. Press seam allowance to the sides.
– Fold the sides of Sleeve Facing right sides together, sew the short ends. Press seam allowance to the sides.
– Place Sleeve Facing and Sleeve right sides together, matching the sleeve opening. Pin and sew the Sleeve Facing to the Sleeve. Understitch the seam allowance to the Sleeve Facing and turn the Sleeve Facing to wrong side of Sleeve.
– Topstitch or slipstitch along the edge of the Sleeve Facing to secure position.
11. Sew and attach the Sleeve
– Gather the cap of Sleeve (from the notch on the front armscye to the notch on the back armscye, across the notch on the cap) to match the measurement from the notch on front armhole to the notch on the back armhole across the shoulder seam.
– Turn the Sleeve right side out, put it into the main garment. Match the armhole seam and all notches along the seam. Pin and sew to attach.
12. Finish dress hem
– Fold the hem of dress to wrong side of fabric and finish using your preferred method (topstitch or slipstitch).
– Trim off 5cm (2”) from skirt lining to prevent it from showing under the main fabric and finish hem.
13. Attach button and sew button loop to the back neck
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/12/30/how-to-hand-sew-button-loop/
This design requires you to have some advanced sewing skills, but is worth your time and effort! It will be your favorite when it comes to special occasions like weddings or formal parties.
This is the download link:
KYLIE OPEN BACK MIDI DRESS (A0 PAPER)
KYLIE OPEN BACK MIDI DRESS (A4/US LETTER PAPER)
KYLIE OPEN BACK MIDI DRESS (PROJECTOR FILE)
To download just click on the link above and choose “Save link as”. The PDF file will be downloaded to your device. An advertisement may pop up, just close it and continue with your download. In case some ads attempt to make you enter your personal info, just ignore and close it. I do NOT require any kind of information to download my pattern files.
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns or tag me on Instagram #tianasclosetsewingpatterns, I will be thrilled to see the garment in real life!
