The Mariam mock neck top is a design that features relaxed fit, hi low hem with side slit and long sleeves. It can be paired with my elastic waist pants for a laid-back outfit, or worn together with other skirt designs for an elevated work/play out fit.
Tiana’s Closet sewing patterns are made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in both A4/Letter paper and A0 paper format so you can print at home or at any print shop!
For home printers, you can print this using your home printer and either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
You will need:
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is intended for woven fabric, but you can also use knits (go down 1 size)
- Some fusible interfacing for the collar
- Some buttons for back and cuff closure
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern piece. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
The fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: cut 1 on the fold
- Back Yoke: cut 2 mirrored
- Back: cut 2 on the fold
- Sleeve: cut 2 mirrored
- Collar: cut 2 self + 1 fusible interfacing
- Sleeve Cuff: cut 2
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to secure them in place. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut out the fabric pieces along the outer lines of the pattern. Take your time to ensure precise and clean cuts, as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of your garment.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats, draw marks etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge the raw edges to prevent fabric from unravelling. Apply fusible interfacing on one Collar piece.
2. Take one Back Yoke piece, fold the center back twice along the marked line toward the wrong side to create a button stand. Sew to secure.
3. Place two Back Yoke on top of each other, right side facing the same direction, with the button stand overlapping. Sew or baste the overlapping part at the lower end to get the Back Yoke.
4. Place Back Yoke and Back piece right side facing. Pin and sew to attach the Back Yoke to the Back piece.
5. Place Front and Back right side facing, pin and sew shoulder and side seams. For the side seams, start from armhole to the notch on the side seam, leaving part of the side seam for the slit. You can also adjust the length of the slit if you like.
6. Fold and sew the hem of the Main Garment, then finish the slit. You can refer to this tutorial on How to finish side slits.
7. Gather the lower end of the Sleeve piece so that it matches the longer edge of the Sleeve Cuff. This is a tutorial on How to gather fabric.
8. Sew the underarm seam of the Sleeve, the seam goes from the armhole and stops at about 2 inch (5cm) from the lower edge. Press seam allowance to the sides and staystitch it to the wrong side of fabric.
9. Fold the Sleeve Cuff in half right side together, sew the two short ends. Clip the corner and turn the Sleeve Cuff right side out. Attach the Sleeve Cuff to the Sleeve. You can refer to this tutorial on a few ways to attach sleeve cuff.
10. Turn the Sleeve in side out, pin it to the main garment, matching notches and seams. Sew to attach. This is a tutorial on How to sew set in sleeve.
11. Place the Collar pieces right side facing, pin and sew around the edges, leaving the longer curve open. Clip the corner, trim off seam allowance. Staystitch seam allowance to the interfaced side. Turn the Collar right side out.
12. Pin and the Collar to the main garment, making sure the notch matches. Sew to attach the Collar. You can refer to this video tutorial on how to attach a collar. It is similar to sew the collar stand to the garment.
13. Divide the back button stand in 2 parts and mark the button and buttonhole position. Make the buttonholes on the outside button stand, and sew buttons on the inside button stand. You can also use snap on buttons instead. This is a video tutorial on Sewing button holes – with a special button hole foot, or by hand.
14. Make buttonholes on the Sleeve Cuffs and attach buttons.
Although there is some advanced sewing skill needed for this project, I believe you will feel happy with the result!
And here is the download link:
To download just click on the link above and choose “Save link as”. The PDF file will be downloaded to your device. An advertisement may pop up, just close it and continue with your download. In case some ads attempt to make you enter your personal info, just ignore and close it. I do NOT require any kind of information to download my pattern files.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Because of many cases of copyright infringement, I have restricted permission on my patterns from now on and you will not be able to open it using pdf editing software like Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw etc. Please use PDF readers to open and view the files – there are many free PDF readers that offer layer viewing and printing, like Adobe Reader, Foxit Reader…
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns or tag me on Instagram #tianasclosetsewingpatterns, I will be thrilled to see the garment in real life!