Gilian front ruched detail dress – free pdf sewing pattern

Gilian ruched detail dress

This pattern today was inspired by a design I found on Pinterest. I don’t know the brand or have any information about it, but I think it is a good design, especially for someone who are not very confident with their tummy. The ruched detail at the front is a great way to hide a not very flat belly (just like mine – I can’t get rid of the extra fat I gained during my pregnancy).

As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired size. Also check your size before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.

The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.

You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!

Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.


You will need

  • Fabric of your choice
  • Zipper
  • Some fusible interfacing
  • Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
  • Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
  • Printed pattern

What fabric can be used for this project? This design is meant for woven fabric, but you can also make it with stretch fabric (but do not use too stretchy ones)..

How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.

Cutting instruction:

After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:

Gilian ruched detail dress

You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.

Fabric will be cut into following pieces:

  • Front: cut 1 on the fold
  • Back: cut 2
  • Front Neckline Facing: cut 1 self fabric + 1 fusible interfacing
  • Back Neckline Facing: cut 2 self fabric + 2 fusible interfacing
  • Sleeve: cut 2

If you want the dress to be a bit longer, just extend the skirt hem. Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.

Sewing instruction:

1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edge to prevent fabric from unraveling. Apply fusible interfacing to the neckline facing pieces.

2. Sew two straight lines using longest stitches ¼ and 1/3 inch from the edge of the center front seam (starting from the notch toward the intersection at the center of the Front piece). Pull lower threads to gather the fabric until the curved edge becomes a straight line. Distribute the gatherings evenly. Repeat with the other side.

3. Fold the Front piece so that the right side of the two gathered parts are facing each other. Pin and sew the center seam.

4. Fold and sew the back darts. Place Front and Back pieces right side facing, pin and sew the shoulder and side seams.

5. Sew the side seam of the Sleeve.

6. Fold the hem of the sleeve, sew the hem leaving 2 inch open to insert elastic. Put in elastic and secure the ends and close the opening.

7. Turn the Sleeve inside out, place it right side facing the main garment at the armhole, matching the notches. Pin and sew to join the sleeve to the main garment.

8. Sew the shoulder seam of the Neckline Facing pieces.

9. Place the Neckline Facing and the main garment right side facing. Pin and sew to join. Clip the curve for smoother neckline. Turn the facing piece in, staystitch the seam allowance to the facing piece.

10. Attach zipper to the back of the dress and finish the center back seam.

11. Hem the dress.

Although the center front gathering detail may be a bit of a challenge to newer sewers, I believe the result will make you happy.

And here is the download link:


Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns


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