The Lettie dress was inspired by a design sold on the Iconic, a fashion website for Australia and New Zealand. It is a lovely design with relaxed fit, a mid calf length and puffed sleeve. It has button closure at the back. It is another simple project that even beginners can work on!
You can make it using your regular size, or go up one size for a looser fitting – more comfortable and relaxing.
Below are some images of the dress in two different prints:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired size. Also check your size before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
You will need
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is made for woven fabric.
- Buttons for closure at the back
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: cut 1 on the fold
- Back: cut 2
- Skirt – Upper: cut 2
- Skirt – Lower: cut 2
- Sleeve: cut 2
- Neckline Binding: cut 1 on bias
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edge to prevent fabric from unraveling. Pin and sew the bust darts on Front bodice.
2. Fold the seam allowance on Back piece and sew along the marked line 1.5cm (5/8 inch) from the folded edge. Do this with both pieces. Place two Back pieces on top of each other, with the button stand overlapping each other. Stitch at the bottom end to keep the pieces together to get the back bodice piece.
3. Sew 2 parallel lines using longest stitch length at ¼ inch and ½ inch from the top of the skirt. Pull the lower threads to gather the fabric so that it matches the width of the lower edge of bodice piece. Do this with both front and back pieces.
4. Gather the Skirt – Lower pieces to match the Skirt – Upper pieces.
5. Place the upper and lower skirt pieces right side facing. Sew to join to get the Skirt pieces.
6. Place a Skirt piece and Front Bodice right side facing. Pin and sew to join. Repeat with the other Skirt piece and Back Bodice.
7. Place Front and Back dress right side facing. Pin and sew the shoulder seams and one side seam.
8. Attach invisible zipper to the remaining side seam. Sew to finish the side seam.
9. Gather the sleeve cap using the same method in step 3.
10. Sew the side seam of the Sleeve pieces.
11. Fold and sew to finish the hem of the Sleeve, leaving a small opening to insert elastic. The length of elastic should be the circumference of your bicep plus 1 inch. Sew the ends of the elastic, push it back in the casing and sew to close the casing.
12. Turn the sleeve inside out. Place it to the armhole of the garment so two pieces are right side facing. Adjust the gathering at the sleeve cap to match the notches on the armhole. Pin and sew to attach sleeve to the armhole. Do this with both sleeves.
13. Use bias tape to finish neckline. Divide the button stand on the center back into 5 equal parts. Make buttonholes and attach buttons to the button stand.
14. Finish by hemming the skirt.
Although the sleeve gathering detail may be a bit of a challenge to newer sewers, I believe the result will make you happy.
Below is the download link. Just click on right mouse and choose save file. There might be an ad pop up, just close it and continue with your download. I do not ask for any information for downloading my file!
LETTIE PUFFED SLEEVE MAXI DRESS (SIZE XXS – 5XL)
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns