DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST
It’s been over a month since my last update, and now I’m back with a new design for the coming spring – the Mandy flounce hem dress. This dress features a round neckline, puffed long sleeve and a flirty flounce hem. I’m sure it is perfect for warmer brighter days when it is still somehow chilly. Cover your legs with a pair of boots and you are ready to go out!
I also made a few simulations for easier visualization of the design:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size. You can also lengthen or shorten the hemline to get your desired length.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
You will need
- Fabric of your choice
- Invisible zippers
- Some fusible interfacing (optional)
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
What fabric can be used for this project? This design is made for woven fabric. You can use either soft, flowy fabric or thicker, more bodied fabric. Each thickness and texture will give you a different result.
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front Bodice: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Back Bodice: cut 2 pieces
- Front Neck Facing: cut 1 piece self fabric + 1 piece fusible interfacing (both on the fold)
- Back Neck Facing: cut 2 pieces self fabric + 2 pieces fusible interfacing
- Front Skirt – Upper part: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Back Skirt – Upper part: cut 2 pieces
- Skirt Flounce – Front: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Skirt Flounce – Back: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Sleeve: cut 2 pieces
- Sleeve Cuff: cut 2 pieces on the fold
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
The fusible interfacing is optional. It is used to make the collar stiffer and stay true to shape, but omitting it will not cause you too much trouble.
1. Serge the fabric to prevent the sides from unraveling.
2. Apply fusible interfacing to the neck facing pieces.
3. Fold, pin and sew the bust darts, waist darts on front and back bodice pieces.
4. Place Front Bodice and one Back Bodice piece right side facing. Pin and sew shoulder and side seam. Repeat with the other Back Bodice piece.
5. Place the Front Skirt and Back Skirt (upper part) right side facing. Pin and sew the side seam. Repeat with the other piece of Back Skirt.
6. Place the Bodice and the Upper Skirt part right side facing. Match the side seam, pin and sew to join. You get the main garment.
7. Now turn to the sleeves. Sew two parallel lines using longest stitch length at the cap of the sleeve (starting from about 4 inches from the notch at the top of sleeve cap and ending at about the same distance on the other side of the cap). Pull the threads to gather the sleeve cap until it matches the armhole on the main garment, distribute the gathering evenly.
Use the same method to match the other end of the sleeve with the cuff.
Sew the side seam of the sleeve. Start from the armhole and stop at 2 inches from the cuff. Backstitch a few stitch to secure the seam. Fold the unsewn edge in and stitch to keep it in place.
Fold the Sleeve Cuff right side in. Sew the two short edges of the Sleeve Cuff. Turn it inside out, press it flat.
Turn the sleeve inside out. Place the folded sleeve cuff onto the opening of the sleeve. Pin and sew to attach the cuff to the sleeve. Do it with both sleeves.
Mark 2 points about 1/4 inch from the edge of each side of the cuff to sew buttons and buttonholes. You can use snap buttons or hooks if your machine does not have buttonhole making feature.
8. Place the sleeve and the armhole right side facing. Match all notches. Pin and sew to attach the sleeve to the garment. Do it with both sleeves.
9. Place the Front Neck Facing and Back Neck Facing right side facing. Pin and sew the shoulder seam. Repeat with the other Back Neck Facing piece.
10. Place the joined Neck Facing piece to the main garment, match the center of the front and the side seams. Pin and sew along the neckline. Trim the neckline, clip to smoothen the curve. Press the seam allowance to the facing piece and staystitch it to the facing piece.
11. Attach invisible zippers to the back of the main garment.
12. Place the Front Flounce and Back Flounce right side facing. Pin and sew both side seams.
13. Place the joined Flounce piece to the main garment. Pin and sew to join.
14. Hem the dress. Give it a good iron and you’re done!
Although this dress requires some advanced sewing skills, it is worth the time and effort. Do you agree?
And here is the download link:
And once again, here is the printing instruction.
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns