DOWNLOAD LINK AT THE END OF THE POST
I came across this lovely design when surfing Pinterest. It belongs to one of Ron Herman’s collections – I am not sure which one because I visited the brand’s website and found no information about it. The only thing I know is that it must be expensive – the average price for a blouse is about 300 dollars!
Because I do not have any other images of the front of this blouse, I have to improvise one myself. So this is the 3D simulation for it: round neck front, cropped length, boxy silhouette. Hope it does not go too far from the model.
As usual, the Lia top is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL, so you will find yourself a suitable size.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the instruction here.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
HOW TO SEW THE LIA FLOUNCE SLEEVE CROP TOP
You will need
- Fabric of your choice
- Some buttons
- Some fusible interfacing
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
What fabric can be used for this project? If you want the garment to look like the one in the Ron Herman collection, choose a mid weight woven fabric. I would also love to see it made in jacquard or denim – even try colorful prints – to add some fun to the look.
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? You may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: 1 piece on fold
- Left Back: 1 piece
- Right Back: 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve: 2 pieces
- Sleeve Flounce: 2 pieces
- Front Facing: 1 piece main fabric + 1 piece fusible interfacing
- Left Back Facing: 1 piece main fabric + 1 piece fusible interfacing
- Right Back Facing: 1 piece main fabric + 1 piece fusible interfacing
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as pleats etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge the fabric to prevent fraying. If you use non fraying fabric (like fleece or knitted fabric), you can skip this step.
2. Fold and sew to close the bust darts.
3. Place the Front Piece and Right Back Piece right side facing, sew the shoulder seam and the side seam. Repeat with the Front Piece and Left Back Piece. Press to open the shoulder seams.
4. Iron Fusible Interfacing to Front Facing, Left and Right Back Facing pieces.
5. Place the Front Facing and Left Back Facing right side facing, sew the shoulder seam. Repeat with the Right Back Facing. Press to open the seams.
6. Place the main piece of the garment and the facing right side facing so that all the points, notches and seams match. Pin and sew the facing to the main garment. Clip the seam allowance at the curves and points to make smoother lines.
7. Iron the facing’s seam pointing away from the garment. Stitch on top of the facing though the seam allowance on the back, at about 1/8″ away from the seam. This is called staystitching which ensure that the facing lays flat pointing towards the inside of the garment.
8. Sew two parallel lines using longest stitch length at the top edge of the Sleeve Flounce pieces. Pull to gather the edge so it matches the lower edge of the sleeve.
9. Place Upper Sleeve and Sleeve Flounce pieces right side facing. Pin and sew to join.
10. Sew the sleeve side close.
11. Place the sleeve and the armhole right side facing. You need to place the right sleeve and armhole side – note that I put 1 notch at the front side of the sleeve cap, and two notches at the back side of the sleeve cap – corresponding with 1 notch at the front armhole and 2 notches at the back armhole. You need to match all the notches. The notch at the top of the sleeve cap matches the shoulder seam. Pin and sew to join the sleeve to the garment. Repeat with the other sleeve.
12. Draw a line ½ inch from the edge of the Right Back. Divide it into 4 equal parts. Mark the point to sew the buttons.
13. Draw a line ½ inch from the edge of the Left Back, measure the same length of the line on the Right Back. Mark the points for buttonholes.
Note: If you don’t want to make buttonholes, just place the two points on Left Back and Right Back, sew a button through these two layers. Make sure the Left Back has 1 inch overlapping the Right Back. This create a faux button closure for the garment.
14. Hem the garment and the sleeve. And you’re made it – the elegant Lia flounce sleeve crop top!
And here is the download link:
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns