Desiree bustier dress is a pattern for experienced sewists. It has a body hugging fit, with bustier bodice design, and a flared skirt. Challenge yourself with this pattern, and you will find the result very satisfying.
Let’s have a closer look at the design:
Tiana’s Closet sewing patterns are made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in both A4/Letter paper and A0 paper format so you can print at home or at any print shop!
For home printers, you can print this using your home printer and either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
You will need:
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is intended for woven fabrics. Choose the type with a bit of horizontal stretch for comfortability.
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
Cutting instruction:
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this:
All my patterns already include 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Just cut the pattern pieces as is and use a 1cm seam allowance when you sew.
The fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Center Front Bodice: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Side Back Bodice: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Center Bust Cup: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Side Bust Cup: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Upper Bust Cup: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Center Back Bodice: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Side Back Bodice: cut 2 self + 2 lining in mirrored pairs
- Front Skirt: cut 1 piece on the fold
- Back Skirt: cut 2 mirrored pieces
- Shoulder Strap: cut 2
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to secure them in place. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut out the fabric pieces along the outer lines of the pattern. Take your time to ensure precise and clean cuts, as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of your garment.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats, draw marks etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
Sewing instruction:
1. Sew the main bodice:
– Place Center Bust Cup and Side Bust Cup right sides together, sew the cup seam to get the lower bust cup.
– Place the Upper Bust Cup and the Lower Bust Cup right sides together, sew to get the bust cup.
– Place the Center Front and Side Front right sides facing, pin and sew to join to get the half front bodice piece.
– Place the Bust Cup and the half front bodice piece right sides facing, carefully match the notches and seams, and sew to attach the cup to the front bodice.
– Place two half front bodice pieces right sides together, sew the center front seam.
– Place the Side Back Bodice and Front Bodice right sides facing, matching the side seam and sew to attach.
– Continue to sew the Center Back Bodice to the piece you just sewed and get the main bodice.
2. Sew the lining bodice:
– Repeat step 1 with the lining fabric to get the lining pieces.
3. Sew the skirt:
– Place Front Skirt and Back Skirt right sides together, carefully match the side seam and sew.
– Repeat with the other Back Skirt piece to get the Skirt.
4. Attach the Skirt to the Bodice:
– Place the Skirt and main bodice right sides facing, match all seams and notches.
– Pin and sew to get the main garment.
5. Sew the shoulder straps:
– Fold the shoulder straps in half lengthwise, right sides facing in.
– Sew along the long edge and turn the fabric inside out.
6. (Optional) Sew the adjustable straps
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2024/01/04/how-to-sew-adjustable-straps/
7. Attach shoulder straps to the main garment
– Place the straps at the marked spot on the Front and Back of the bodice, make sure it does not twist.
– Baste or sew to secure in position.
8. Sew the bodice lining to the main garment
– Place Bodice Lining and main garment right sides together, matching the top edge and seams.
– Sew along the top edge to attach the bodice lining to main garment.
– Turn fabric over and staystitch seam allowance to the Bodice Lining.
9. Sew invisible zipper to the center back
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2024/01/09/how-to-sew-invisible-zipper-on-a-partially-lined-dress/
10. Finish dress hem by folding the hem to the wrong side of fabric and topstitch.
You can also use more advanced techniques like use boning or insert foam cups to the bust cup for a more polished finish.
This is the download link:
DESIREE BUSTIER DRESS (SIZE XXS-5XL) A4/LETTER PAPER
DESIREE BUSTIER DRESS (SIZE XXS-5XL) A0 PAPER
To download just click on the link above and choose “Save link as”. The PDF file will be downloaded to your device. An advertisement may pop up, just close it and continue with your download. In case some ads attempt to make you enter your personal info, just ignore and close it. I do NOT require any kind of information to download my pattern files.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Because of many cases of copyright infringement, I have restricted permission on my patterns from now on and you will not be able to open it using pdf editing software like Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw etc. Please use PDF readers to open and view the files – there are many free PDF readers that offer layer viewing and printing, like Adobe Reader, Foxit Reader…
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns or tag me on Instagram #tianasclosetsewingpatterns, I will be thrilled to see the garment in real life!
