Paloma slit neck blouse is a simple design for your daily outfit. It comes with short puffed sleeves, a slit front with tie straps, and a gathered detail. It is simple and easy, and makes your casual outfit effortlessly stylish.
Let’s have a look at the design:
Tiana’s Closet sewing patterns are made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in both A4/Letter paper and A0 paper format so you can print at home or at any print shop!
For home printers, you can print this using your home printer and either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
PREPARING AND CUTTING FABRIC
What you’ll need:
– Printed and cut out pattern.
– Fabric of your choice. This pattern is made for woven fabric (cotton, linen, silk, charmeuse, chiffon, etc.)
– Some lightweight lining fabric (you can also use main fabric)
– Some elastic for sleeve cuff. Elastic width: 0.5cm (3/8in).
– Sewing/serging machine, or needle and threads.
Prepare and cut fabric:
Information about the amount of fabric needed for your pattern is not included. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. If you want to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use. Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
Lay out your pieces according to straight of grain as marked on the pattern pieces. Some pieces will be cut on the fold, the corresponding edge will then be marked with a fold mark. Kindly pay attention to notes regarding type of fabric and quantity of required pieces on a block. For example, [Lower Skirt, cut 1 on fold] on a pattern piece means that you need to cut 1 piece on the fold, or [Collar, cut 2 self + 1 fusible interfacing] means you need to cut 2 mirrored pieces of self fabric and 1 piece of fusible interfacing.
Place the sewing pattern pieces on the fabric and use weights to keep them from shifting. Mark the outlines with a water-soluble or heat-erasable marker. Make sure to mark and transfer all notches and other design features such as pleats, pocket position etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this:
The pattern pieces are cut as follows:
– Front Yoke: cut 2 mirrored pieces main fabric + 2 mirrored pieces lining
– Lower Front: cut 1 piece on the fold
– Back Yoke: cut 1 piece main fabric + 1 piece lining (both on the fold)
– Lower Back: cut 1 piece on the fold
– Sleeve: cut 2 mirrored pieces
– Split Facing: cut 1 piece
– Tie Strap: cut 2 pieces
SEWING INSTRUCTION
1. Serge/zig zag stitch the edge of fabric to prevent it from unraveling.
2. Gather the Lower Back
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/08/31/how-to-gather-fabric/
– Gather the part between two notches in the middle of the top edge of the Lower Back.
– Stitch two parallel gathering lines along the top edge of the Lower Front piece, starting from one notch to the other. The first stitch line should be placed at 0.3 cm (1/8 inch) from the top edge, and the second stitch line should be placed at 0.5 cm (1/4 inch) above the first stitch line. Leave the ends of threads on each end, at least 10 cm (4 inches) long.
– Gather fabric by pulling the lower threads until the top edge of the Lower Back match the bottom edge of the Back Yoke. Distribute gatherings evenly and tie thread ends.
3. Sew the front slit facing
– Fold 0.5cm (1/4in) of the diagonal edges and bottom edge of the slit facing to the wrong side of fabric and topstitch to hold position.
– Place the Front Slit Facing at the upper edge of the Lower Front, right sides facing. The center point of the Front Slit Facing matches the center point of the Lower Front.
– Transfer the V shaped marking on the Lower Front to the Front Slit Facing. Stitch the V shape. Pivot fabric as you come to the pointy tip of the V shape.
– Cut along the inside of the V shape and turn the slit facing to the wrong side of fabric to get a sharp corner. Press to flatten.
– Topstitch 0.5cm (1/4in) from the edge of the split to secure position.
4. Gather the Lower Front
– Use the same method to gather the part between two notches on each side of the Lower Front to match the bottom edge of the Front Yoke.
5. Sew the Tie Strap
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/06/02/how-to-make-spaghetti-straps-drawstrings/
– Fold the Tie Strap in half lengthwise and stitch along the long edge to create a tube.
– Trim off half of seam allowance and turn fabric right side out.
6. Sew the Yoke
– Place Front Yoke and Back Yoke right sides facing. Pin and sew the shoulder seams. Press seam allowance to the sides. Repeat with the Yoke lining.
– Place the Yoke and Yoke lining right sides together, matching the neckline. Put the tie strap in between the two layers at the corner of the front neckline, 1cm (3/8in) below the edge of the neckline seam.
– Pin and sew the neckline. Start from the diagonal edge of the Front Yoke towards the shoulder, along the back neckline and to the other edge. When you come to the corner, keep needle down, lift the foot and pivot fabric then lower the foot and continue to sew.
– Clip the seam allowance at the corners, then press and staystitch seam allowance to the lining piece.
– Turn the Yoke to the right side and press.
7. Attach the Lower Back to Back Yoke
– With the main Back Yoke spread out flat on surface, right side facing up, place the Lower Back right side facing down, matching the bottom yoke seam. Pin to secure position.
– Fold the Back Yoke lining over, right side facing down, matching the bottom yoke seam. The Lower Back is now sandwiched between the Back Yoke and Back Yoke Lining.
– Pin all 3 layers together and sew the yoke seam.
– Pull fabric to the right side through the armhole. Press to flatten and topstitch the yoke seam on the Back Yoke if necessary.
8. Attach the Lower Front to the Front Yoke
– Fold the seam allowance of the Front Yoke and Front Yoke Lining to the wrong side of fabric.
– Lay the Front Yoke flat on surface, right side facing up. Carefully put the Lower Front in between the Front Yoke and Front Yoke facing, right side facing up. Match the seam allowance of the Lower Front with the seam allowance of the Front Yoke.
– Pin two layers of the Front Yoke and the Lower Front together. Edgestitch as close as possible to the folded edge of the Front Yoke, catching both the yoke and yoke lining.
9. Sew the side seams to get the Main Garment
– Carefully match the side seams of the Front and Back together, right sides facing. Pin and sew the side seams to get the Main Garment.
10. Gather the Sleeve
– Measure the length from the notch on the armhole opening of the Front Yoke and the notch on the armhole opening of Back Yoke, across the shoulder seam.
– Use similar method as in step 2 to gather the cap of the Sleeve (from the notch on the front armhole to the notch on the back armhole of the sleeve, across the cap of the sleeve).
11. Sew the Sleeve
– Place two sides of the Sleeve right sides together, pin and sew the underarm seam.
12. Sew the elastic sleeve cuff
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/11/23/how-to-sew-elastic-sleeve-hem/
– Cut a piece of elastic, the length should equal your bicep circumference.
– Sew two ends of elastic to get a loop.
– Place the elastic loop to the wrong side of sleeve bottom. Fold the seam allowance of sleeve bottom twice to the wrong side of fabric, covering the elastic.
– Topstitch the folded edge to create a casing for elastic. Pay attention not to sew onto elastic.
13. Set in Sleeves
Video tutorial on setting in sleeves: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/11/06/how-to-sew-set-in-sleeve/
– Align the armhole to the armhole opening of the Main Garment, right sides facing.
– The underarm seam of the Sleeve should line up with the side seam of the Main Garment. The highest notch on the cap of the sleeve should line up with the shoulder seam. You may need to adjust the gathering at the sleeve cap to match the seams.
– Baste the Sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches at the front and back armholes with the notches at the front and back sides of the cap. The underarm part of the sleeve and the main garment should lay flat.
– Pin and sew to attach the Sleeve to the Main Garment.
14. Finish hemline with rolled hem
Hem allowance of this design is 2cm (3/4 inch).
Video tutorial: https://tianascloset.com/index.php/2023/10/30/how-to-sew-a-rolled-hem/
– Fold the seam allowance twice to the wrong side of fabric, each fold is 1cm (3/8in).
– Topstitch along the folded edge to finish the garment.
Download PDF sewing pattern here:
PALOMA SLIT NECK BLOUSE SIZE XXS-5XL (A0 PAPER)
PALOMA SLIT NECK BLOUSE SIZE XXS-5XL (A4/US LETTER PAPER)
