Shannon dress is inspired by the Garden dress sold on Something to Hold. It is a elegant and simple design with a loose fit, an elasticized sleeve hem, gathers around a curved yoke, back button closure, two side pockets, and a (optional) detachable waist sash.
Let’s have more detailed look at the design:
As usual, my pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
My patterns are now made in both A4/Letter paper and A0 paper format so you can print at home or at any print shop!
For home printers, you can print this using your home printer and either A4 or Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit. I was informed by a reader that you can also print the pdf as image to get the right scale, however I never tested it on my computer.
You will need
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is intended for woven fabric.
- Some light weight lining fabric
- Buttons for back keyhole closure
- Some 1/2 inch elastic
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern piece. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
The fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front Dress: cut 1 on the fold
- Back Dress: cut 1 on the fold
- Sleeve: cut 2
- Front Yoke: cut 1 self + 1 lining on the fold
- Back Yoke: cut 2 self + 2 lining
- Pocket: cut 4
- (Optional) Bias strip for waist stash
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to secure them in place. Using sharp scissors, carefully cut out the fabric pieces along the outer lines of the pattern. Take your time to ensure precise and clean cuts, as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of your garment.
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats, draw marks etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edges to prevent fabric from unraveling.
2. Place 2 pieces of the Front Yoke right side facing, pin and sew the neckline curve. Trim and clip the seam allowance, stay stitch the seam allowance to lining piece. Press to flatten.
3. Place a Back Yoke and the corresponding lining piece right side facing, pin and sew the neckline and the center seam. Trim and clip corners and curve, turn it over and staystitch the seam allowance to the lining piece. Repeat with the other Back Yoke.
4. Place 2 Back Yoke pieces right side facing, sew from the bottom edge to the notch in the center seam. Backstitch to secure.
5. Sew 2 parallel lines using longest stitch length ½ and ¼ inch from the top edge of the Front Dress (from one notch to another). Pull lower threads to gather the Front piece to match the bottom width of the Front Yoke piece (remember to match the center of each piece). Distribute the gatherings evenly.
6. Place the Front Dress and Front Yoke pieces right side facing. Pin and sew to attach the pieces together. Repeat with the Back Yoke and Back Dress pieces.
7. Place Front and Back right side facing, pin and sew shoulder and side seams, adding side seam pocket as you sew. This is a guide on How to add an side seam pocket. The side seams only go from underarm to the lower notch on the side. Fold the seam allowance of the unsewn part to hide the raw edge and sew to finish the side slit.
8. Gather the cap of the Sleeve piece (from one notch to the other) so it matches the armhole in length.
9. Sew the underarm seam of the Sleeve. Fold the hem of the Sleeve, sew about ¾ inch from the folded line, leaving 1 inch open. Thread in elastic and sew two ends together (elastic length is about your bicep circumference). Sew to close the opening.
10. Place the Sleeve and the Main Garment right side facing. Match the notches on each side and pin to secure. Sew to attach Sleeve to the Main Garment.
11. Hem the garment. Attach button and button hole to the back keyhole.
12. (Optional) Sew a side loop right above the opening of the side pocket for waist stash. Waist stash can be made of a long strip of spaghetti strap. This is a guide on How to make spaghetti straps/drawstrings.
And here is the download link:
To download just click on the link above and choose “Save link as”. The PDF file will be downloaded to your device. An advertisement may pop up, just close it and continue with your download. In case some ads attempt to make you enter your personal info, just ignore and close it. I do NOT require any kind of information to download my pattern files.
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns or tag me on Instagram #tianasclosetsewingpatterns, I will be thrilled to see the garment in real life!