This dress was inspired by a design I saved quite a long time ago, and I did not remember its brand or actual designer. It was on my to-make list for quite a long time, but I forgot about it until a few days ago when I scroll through the images on my phone. Now finally the pattern for this lovely design is made – and I name it the Tracey puffed sleeve mini dress.
The Tracey dress features above the knee length, with fitted silhouette and voluminous sleeves. The fitted shape is created by multiple waist darts – an interesting detail to bring more structure to the whole garment. It may take more time to transfer all the darts and sew them in place, but if done correctly it will elevate the dress to the high-class level.
My pattern is made in 10 sizes from XXS to 5XL so you may find a suitable size for yourself no matter how skinny or chubby you are. If you are not sure which size suits you, take a look at the measurement table before doing anything here: SIZE GUIDE.
The pattern is made using layered PDF, please check for your desired size before printing so you won’t waste your paper. I have included a first page with many details about sizing and printing, so please first read the first page and make sure you know what size you need! If you still do not know how to print a layered PDF, please check for the printing instruction in this post: PRINTING GUIDE.
You can print this using your home printer and A4/Letter paper. I calculated the printing area so that you will be able to use either type of paper to print the pattern out perfectly. Always print the first page first and check with the test square if you are printing at the right scale before you print out the whole pattern – avoid waste of ink and waste of paper, save the earth!
Some PC may print smaller than actual size even when you choose 100% scale – I don’t know why this problem exist, but my HP laptop cannot print true to size. I have to scale up to 103% to get the right size. You may need to check with your PC to see if it prints true to size, if not, scale up a bit.
You will need
- Fabric of your choice. This pattern is made for woven fabric.
- Invisible zipper
- Fusible interfacing (light weight)
- Scissors, pencil or fabric marker, ruler, pins
- Sewing machine/Serger or needle and thread
- Printed pattern
How much fabric do you need for this piece of garment? To be precise, you may need to check how much fabric you need before buying. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. Just to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 centimeters or 35 to 60 inches). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
After printing out and taping all the pattern pages together, you will get something similar to this image:
You will see that there are 2 sets of lines on each pattern size. The inner lines are sewing line (and you sew along these lines), and the outer lines are cutting lines (you cut the fabric along these lines, remember the folding lines where you have to fold the fabric before cutting). The distance between sewing line and cutting line is seam allowance, and it varies from point to point. For example, the side seam allowance is about 1/2 inch (1.2cm), and seam allowance at hemline is 1 inch (2.5cm). This is the reason why I do not remove the sewing lines from the pattern. Please use it as a guide to know how much seam allowance you need to give at each seam.
Fabric will be cut into following pieces:
- Front: cut 1 on the fold
- Back: cut 2
- Sleeve: cut 2
- Sleeve Cuff: cut 2
- Front Facing: cut 1 self fabric + 1 fusible interfacing
- Back Facing: cut 2 self fabric + 2 fusible interfacing
Make sure to mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern pieces onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
1. Serge/zig zag stitch the raw edge to prevent fabric from unraveling.
2. Apply fusible interfacing to Front Facing and Back Facing pieces.
3. Fold, pin and sew bust darts, waist darts on Front and Back pieces.
4. Place Front and Back pieces right side facing. Match all the notches, pin and sew the shoulder and side seams. Attach both Back pieces to the Front to get the Main Garment.
5. Sew two parallel lines using longest stitch length ¼ and ½ inch from the edge of the sleeve cap, starting from the notch on the back armhole to the notch on front armhole. Pull to gather the fabric until it matches the corresponding measurement (length from the notch on the front to the notch on the back armhole) of the Main Garment.
6. Use the same method to gather the other end of the Sleeve so that it matches the measurement of the Sleeve Cuff. Sew the side seam of the Sleeve.
7. Sew two short ends of the Sleeve Cuff into a loop. Fold the Sleeve Cuff in half so that the seam allowance is hidden inside.
8. Pin the Sleeve Cuff to the Sleeve, sew to join the Sleeve Cuff to the Sleeve.
9. Turn the Sleeve inside out. Pin the Sleeve to the Main Garment so that the right sides are facing. Match the notches, pin and sew to join the Sleeve to the Main Garment.
10. Place Front Facing and Back Facing right side facing. Sew shoulder seam to get the Neck Facing piece.
11. Place Neck Facing and Main Garment right side facing. Match the center front neck of the Main Garment and the notch on the Neck Facing, pin and sew to attach. Clip the seam allowance, turn the Neck Facing over, stay stitch the seam allowance to the Neck Facing.
12. Attach invisible zipper to the back of the dress and finish the center back seam.
13. Hem the dress.
Because there are many waist darts on the Tracey dress, it may take you some time to transfer the darts and sew it correctly. Pay extra attention to get the darts right because just a little bit of deviation in the width of the darts will result in a difference in measurement of the finished garment.
This design may take you some time to finish, but it will be worth the extra labor – look at how beautiful the inspiration design is! I believe you will love it.
And here is the download link:
Happy sewing! And don’t forget to share your project on my Facebook page: Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns